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TABLE OF CONTENTS

CHAPTERS

Chapter I

THE “EASTBOUND GATE”: WEALTH AND SECRETS

  1. The East-West Trade Routes
  2. The Armenians: Talented People at the Gates of the East
  3. The Ottoman-Safavid Struggle
  4. Mediators of one Great Aim: The Armenians under Safavid Rule
  5. Producing for the Court in Safavid Persia
  6. New Lands, New Markets
  7. The Early Global Trade Network: Armenian Goldsmithery and Jewelry Trade

Chapter II

POWER, WEALTH AND ART: THE BIRTH AND DEVELOPMENT OF OTTOMAN GOLDSMITHERY

  1. Early Periods of Ottoman Goldsmithery
    • Ottoman Goldsmithery: The First Periods (14th and 15th Centuries)
    • Spoils of War: Impact of Persian Goldsmithery
    • The Contributions of the Immigrants
    • Art for the Court: Goldsmiths of the Ehl-i Hiref-i Hâssa
  2. A Bright Era for Ottoman Goldsmithery (16th – 17th Centuries)
    • A Sign of Power and Wealth
    • Control of the Precious Metal and Stone Trade
    • Precious Stones and Jewelry Commerce
    • The Golden Period: Materials and Techniques (16th Century)
    • While the Palace Glows: The Art of Goldsmithery and Jewelry under Murad III
    • Still Plain and Rich: Ottoman Goldsmithery and Jewelry (17th Century)
    • The Goldsmiths of Istanbul in the Seyahatnâme by Evliyâ Çelebi
    • The Armenian Goldsmiths of the 17th Century

Chapter III

THE GRAND BAZAAR: THE PALACE OF ARTISAN GOLDSMITHS AND JEWELERS

  1. The Grand Bazaar: Architectural Integrity and Economic Life
    • The World Around the Bedestens: Producing and Selling in the Grand Bazaar
    • The Magical World of the Grand Bazaar
    • Artisan Organizations in the Grand Bazaar
    • The Charter for the Permanent Unity and Solidarity of the Guild of Armenian Artisan Goldsmiths
    • Armenian Goldsmiths and Jewelers in the Grand Bazaar
    • Presence in the Grand Bazaar: “Apraham 1882” and the Act of Buying
    • Khans in and around the Grand Bazaar, an Exceptional Source: the 1821 Artisan Register
  2. Armenian Antiques Dealers
    • A Prince of the Grand Bazaar: Ludovic (Lutfik) Tensufian
    • Antiques Dealers and Collectors: the Kalfayan Family
    • The Kalebdjian Brothers: Experts of Ancient Mediterranean Treasures
    • Dikran Garabed Kelekian: “Dean of Antiquities”

Chapter IV

THE MODERN ARMENIAN NOBILITY: THE AMIRAS AND THEIR ACTIVITIES

  1. “Amira” – its Origins and the Distinction Between the “Khodja” and “Chelebi” Titles
  2. The Rise of the Amiras: Serpos and Yacoub Amiras
    • Struggle for Life and Death: Confiscation
  3. The 19th century Transformation: Industrialist – Technocrat Amiras
  4. The Privileges of the Amiras and Their Everyday Lives
    • Marriages Between Amira Families
    • The Ostentatious Lives and the Mansions of the Amiras
    • The Luxury Consumption of the Sarraf-Amiras
    • List of Amiras

Chapter V

THE EASTERN DREAM OF A RADIANT WEST: THE IMPACT OF OTTOMAN THOUGHT OF WESTERNIZATION IN THE 18TH-19TH CENTURIES AND THE SARRAF-GOLDSMITHS

  1. Imperative Westernization: Changing Fashions and Artistic Pursuits
  2. Sarrafs in the Changing Economic System
  3. The Hegemony of the Armenian Sarrafs
  4. The Sarraf-Goldsmith Partnership
  5. Sarrafs do not Always Win: The Lost Dreams of Keutcheoglu Hagop
  6. Sarraf Against Sultan: Abdülhamid II and the Auction of the Dynasty’s Jewels
    • Paris Auction Catalogue
  7. Sarrafs and Silversmiths (1691-1872)
    • Sarraf Lists (1691-1872)
    • Lists of Silversmiths (1761-1820)

Chapter VI

MIRRORS OF CHANGE: THE IMPERIAL MINT, THE ARMENIANS AND THE DUZIAN FAMILY

  1. The Imperial Mint – A Historical Look
  2. The Imperial Mint: Staff and Ethnic Composition
  3. The Armenian Presence in the Imperial Mint
  4. The Duzian Family: Goldsmiths and Sarrafs of the Imperial Mint
  5. The Duzians: A Tragic Fate and Relations with Kazaz Artin Amira Bezdjian
  6. The Duzian Family Estate and Wealth Rivalry
  7. Art and Concession: The Duzian Family during the Tanzimat
  8. Ottoman Goldsmithery and the Duzian Impact on Jewelry
  9. The Imperial Mint Goldsmith Chamber under the Duzians and the Armenian Goldsmiths
  10. Virtuosity at the Service of Faith: The Duzians and Sanctity
  11. Symbolic Diplomacy: The Tradition of Gift-giving and the Duzians

Chapter VII

DARKNESS AND LIGHT: COMMERCE AND CONTROL OF PRECIOUS METALS AND STONES IN THE OTTOMAN EMPIRE (18th-20th CENTURIES)

  1. The Changing Economic Structure and Customary Supply of Precious Metals
  2. Precious Metals Shortage, Economic Protectionism and Goldsmiths
  3. Providing Precious Stones: New Era in Jewelry Trade
  4. Armenians in the Precious Stones and Jewelry Trade
  5. From the Ottoman Empire to Space: the Djevahirdjian Family

Chapter VIII

OLD EMPIRE, NEW TASTES: GOLDSMITHERY AND JEWELS UNDER THE OTTOMANS 18th - EARLY 19th CENTURIES

  1. A Look at the Late Ottoman Goldsmithery
  2. Materials, Adornment Styles and Techniques in Ottoman Goldsmithery and Jewelry
  3. Bottlenecks and Changing Tastes: Silver and Enamel
  4. The Age of Pomp: New Forms in Goldsmithery and Jewelry
  5. The End of an Era and the Start of a New
  6. Goldsmiths and Jewelers in the Period of Prosperity
  7. Artisans at the Service of the Community: Antranik the Enameler and the Others

Chapter IX

ARMENIAN GOLDSMITHS IN THE SERVICE OF FAITH

  1. The Armenian Church
  2. Armenian Craftsmanship in Liturgical Objects
  3. The Catholicosate of Holy Etchmiadzin: The Mother See
  4. The Armenian Catholicosate of Cilicia
  5. The Armenian Patriarchate of Jerusalem
  6. The Armenian Patriarchate of Istanbul
    • The Masterful Designer of Liturgical Objects: Vahan Markaryan
  7. Liturgical Objects from Anatolia
  8. Representing a Tradition: Hrayr Dzerunyan

Chapter X

A BRIGHT SUNSET: GOLDSMITHERY AND JEWELS IN THE OTTOMAN EMPIRE FROM THE 19th TO THE EARLY 20th CENTURIES

  1. The Disappearance of an Old Taste
  2. Changes in Material for a “New Tradition”
  3. New Glimmers: Diamond Pointengraving and the Use of Brilliants
  4. Traditional Ways of Producing the New: Ornamentation Techniques
  5. Dominance of European Styles and Quests
  6. Valuable Objects Between Style and Functionality
  7. Witnesses of Time: The Clock Passion and the Armenian Clockmakers
  8. Freer, Brighter: Western-Style Ottoman Jewels
  9. A Symbolic Recognition: Ottoman Orders
  10. Battle and Art: Goldsmithery and Arms
  11. The Secrets of the Gravestone of Chief Sword-maker Acemoğlu Sarkis

Chapter XI

ARMENIAN GOLDSMITHS, CUSTODIANS OF THE LEGACY

  1. On the Trail of Memory
  2. Versatile Master of Two Eras: Levon Mazlumyan (1869-1933)
  3. Lives Devoted to Art
  4. The Kirazyan Legacy: An Archive of Rich and Rare Drawings
  5. Commendable Effort: Vahe Şadvoryan’s Lists
  6. 1975 Grand Bazaar Armenian Goldsmith Artisans
  7. List of Armenian Goldsmiths to be Remembered in the Hokehankist Prayer

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